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MASTERCLASS : Icy Star

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September/October 2011 Find in
September/October 2011
Icy Star
Category: CUT & COLOR

Hair/Pelo: Patrick Kolbow

Makeup/Maquillaje: Manon Subklew

STYLE: Jennifer Hahn
PRODUCTS: C:EHKO



CUT
1. Separate the crown area with an asymmetrical zigzag parting. Separate and secure a second section, which travels from ear to ear (shown in steps 1 and 5).
2. Take a vertical section under the asymmetrical zigzag right above the ear, hold it at a 90º angle and cut to the required length. This section will be your guideline for the occipital and nape areas.
3. Pick up your guide and cut the occipital and nape areas, separating the sections with vertical partings (shown).
4. Comb the temporal and lateral areas towards the face and cut a crisp perimeter line from the nape area up to the front of the ear. Design a pointed sideburn.
5. Clipper the back perimeter line and clean up any stray neck hairs.
6. Release the hair section in the crown area. Create a guideline at the top of the head, making the hair longer on top and shorter at the bottom.
7. Cut the hair in the occipital area by over-directing it to your control section locate the middle of the head (back).
8. Moving to the frontal and parietal areas, divide the hair into two horizontal partings. Separate a horizontal section of hair from the hairline and comb it straight back to the back section.Trim to this section's guide (shown). This will be your cutting pattern for the frontal and parietal areas.
9. Apply anti-frizz serum and straighten with a flat iron.
10-11. Razor cut the final front perimeter from temples to ears; point cut the ends of the hair throughout.

COLOR
Existing Color: New growth, level 7; midshafts and ends, level 9
Formula I.
Cream color C:EHKO Color Cocktail Color
Explosion 10/31 (ultra light golden pearl blond) + 9% oxidizing cream (1:1)
Formula II.
Cream color C:EHKO Color Cocktail Color
Explosion 9/82 and 9/85 (milk caramel and violet cinnamon) + 6% oxidizing cream (1:1)
Formula III.
Cream color C:EHKO Color Cocktail Color
Explosion 12/82 (violet-ash, grey platinum blond) + 12% oxidizing cream (1:1)
12. Apply Formula 1 to the sides and back (shown).
13. Addressing the top section, take horizontal partings and alternate Formulas II and III, covering each section with foil. Process until Formula III foils are light platinum blonde.





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