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MASTERCLASS : Dual Voltage: Flickering Flames

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November/December 2011 Find in
November/December 2011
Dual Voltage: Flickering Flames
Category: CUT & COLOR

Style/Estilo: Matrix

Hair/Pelo: Matrix

Color: Matrix

COLLECTION: Flickering Flames
PRODUCTS: Matrix



CUT
1-1a. On damp hair, create a parting from ear to ear across the top of the head. Divide the front section by creating a diagonal parting from center of left eye to top of head and secure each side. These are Sections 3 and 4.
2-2a. Divide the back section vertically at center and secure each side. These are Sections 1 and 2.
3- 3a. Release Section 1. Subsection horizontally at parietal ridge. Secure top of section. Create a 1"-wide vertical subsection in center of Section 1. Elevate to 90o, allowing perimeter to drop out. Razor cut, creating stationary guide for section. Over-direct vertical subsections to guide. Complete section.
4-4a. Release the section above the parietal. Create a 1" vertical subsection in the center of the section, directly above the previously cut guideline. Elevate 90o from head and razor cut. Continue taking 1"-wide, vertical subsections, over-directing them to the stationary guide.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 in Section 2.
5. Release Section 3. Create a narrow diagonal subsection parallel to front hairline. Using low elevation, razor cut a face frame extending from chin to perimeter. Continue taking diagonal partings, using established guide and complete Section 3. Repeat in Section 4.
6-6a. Create a parting across the top of the head, extending from ear to ear. Create a narrow triangular subsection at the high point of the head that extends approximately 2" back from the front hairline. Razor cut using length from the crown section as your guide.
Working from the top of this section and moving toward the hairline with each parting, continue taking narrow pie-shaped sections, using a traveling guide, and pivoting through Sections 3 and 4 until complete.

COLOR
1-1a. Create a parting from ear to ear across the top of the head. Divide the front section by creating a diagonal parting from center of left eye to top of head and secure each side. These are Sections 3 and 4.
2-2a. Divide back section vertically at center and secure each side. These are Sections 1 and 2.
3. Release Section 1. Divide section in half horizontally at occipital and secure top half. At occipital, create a chunky weave. Place foil and apply Formula A from scalp to ends. Working downward and leaving a 1" subsection between foils, create another chunky weave and apply Formula A, scalp to ends.
4. Next, leaving a 1" subsection between folds, create a third chunky weave, this time using Formula B. Apply scalp to ends and fold. Continue throughout Section 1, alternating Formula A and Formula B. Repeat sectioning and placement from occipital through nape in Section 2.
5. At occipital, and working in an upward direction from top half of Section 1, drop down 1" subsection of hair. Create a chunky weave, apply Formula A from scalp to ends. Continuing to work upward, alternate Formula A and Formula B, leaving out 1" subsections between foils. Continue this pattern in Sections 3 and 4.
6. Apply Formula C to all remaining hair from scalp to ends. Process, rinse and towel dry.
7. Apply Formula D throughout. Process, cleanse and condition.

FORMULA
Formula A: Color Sync, 1½ oz. 6RC (red copper) + 1½ oz. 9-volume Activator
Formula B: V-Light De-Dusted Lightener, 1 scoop + 1 oz. 20-volume SOLITE cream developer
Formula C: Color Sync, 2 oz. 7R (red), ¼ oz. Red Booster + 2 oz. 9-volume Color Sync Activator
Formula D: Color Sync, ½ oz. 8CG (copper gold), ½ oz. 10CG + 1 oz. 9-volume Color Sync Activator





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