Saturne Noire -
Out of This World: Stellar Afros
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Saturne Noire

Texture plays a pivotal role in the Saturne Noire collection.

September/October 2013 Find in
September/October 2013

Nominated for the Black Beauty/Sensationnel Hair Awards 2013 for "International Stylist of the Year," Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney believes that texture, shine, smoothness and shape offer all of the variety an artist could possibly want.

Whether clients have naturally textured hair, lots of length or a specific hair type, Carney likes to interpret and perceive the hair as a fabric. It has texture, shape and form.

"I really enjoy working with African American hair because of its natural texture, but even when it's chemically relaxed I enjoy working with it. I think people that know my work know that I like a range of possibilities from avant-garde to commercial looks and with this collection I wanted show that variety, in textures and shapes," says Carney.

Regardless of the current trends the textures presented in Saturne Noire are always popular. "Texture is the one thing that constantly changes in the world of hair fashion. Whether voluminous, straight, wavy, curly, or frizzy, I like to push hair out of the ordinary. If it's too much, I just pull back a little, while stay graphic and bold."

Cosmos Queen
Use: Joico Power Gel

For this highly sculptured look I created hairpieces-dark and shiny strips of hair were glazed with clear varnish to add a synthetic feel and to stiffen the hair, so it's semi-rigid. The strips are assembled and glued in place to create curves and lines throughout the design. There's nothing natural or wearable, just self-indulgence to create a strong image.
The model's real hair is gelled flat and a wig cap allows the hairpiece to be attached. Long wefts of hair are combed smooth and flat on a flat surface. The wefts are then sprayed with glue and clear varnish to stiffen and add high shine. Create enough strips to build your shape. Simply build your shape on a head block and attach the piece by sewing to the wig cap.

Cotton Candy Tease
Use: Joico Power Spray

Here I created the look by "recycling" hair that is cut and left on the salon floor. Four small buckets of hair were colored different shades and levels to create texture, contrast and dimension to the overall end design. The colored hair is allowed to dry naturally, the matted, balls of hair are cut in to random small pieces and pulled apart, then resembled on top the models short hair. I like that the hair resembles coral-it's kind of organic. It doesn't look like hair at all.

Out of This World: Stellar Afros
Use: Joico Power Spray

Use the same steps by steps as the "Cotton Candy Tease" look:
A wig cap covers the model's own hair. Hair that is cut and left on the salon floor is recycled. "I collected the hair into large trash bags. The hair was simply pulled apart with my fingers, and I sprayed the hair with a light adhesive spray," says Carney.
Repeat the process until you have a full, voluminous, exaggerated shape. Use clippers in a freehand, visual manner to cut a strong rounded shape. The idea is that the shape looks irregular around the edges. The curves and dents add an organic feel. "I sprayed the hair with a temporary colored spray for a final touch on the overall look but, again I used Power Spray here to give the extra firm hold I needed; I just layered the spray as needed - more for the larger styled afro."

Sweet Violet Moon

A real 100% human hair wig was colored by color guru Sue Pemberton using back-to-back slices, alternating vivid, rich, high definition shades. The hair is cut on the model's head, using a one-length technique. Hair is then blow dried and flat ironed to create a super straight, super polished, graphic shape.

The winners will be announced at the awards ceremony to be held, December 1 at the London Hilton Metropole Hotel.

Sweet Violet Moon   Cotton Candy Tease
Out of This World: Stellar Afros   Cosmos Queen   Out of This World: Stellar Afros
Hair: Damien Carney, Joico International Artistic Director;
Photography: Damien Carney;
Hair Color: Sue Pemberton, Joico Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director;
Make-up: Miriam Vukich;
Styling: Arturo Chavez

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